Thursday, December 15, 2011

When the northerly winds blow in Calcutta

It's like "we have no jingle bells or sleigh, to display on Christmas day" in the tropical city of Calcutta but we have a city full of people who can cheer up any day of the year!

I don't want to write an article on Calcutta. How can I be judgmental and unbiased towards a city where I was born and spend the first 23 years of my life at a stretch? I have too many good memories for that. My home, my schools, friends, the bustling markets, walks by the "Lake" on summer evenings, visiting relatives, my college days, fests, shopping and going to movies with friends all contribute to those good memories. So I'll pick up a little part from my days of Calcutta for this article.

Calcutta is a "chance directed, chance erected" city "laid and built, on the silt" by the British. So till today it has some remnants of the British Raj scattered around the city and also in the hearts of true Calcuttans. (By the way, like Satyajit Ray, I do hate changing the name of the city as well as its streets. It takes away our history. So I'll continue calling my city Calcutta and definitely not Kolkata.) December brings a Christmas cheer to the people of my city, although the majority of them are non-Christians! The sultry warm days are over, a clear blue sky covers the half dome above Calcutta and a dry cool wind starts blowing from the north which we lovingly call "Uttore haowa" - the northerly wind. My memories of winter in Calcutta always takes me to our terrace on the third floor, where I'd sit in the late morning or early afternoon basking in the wintry sun, gazing at the blue patch of sky over the nearby hospital and dream of those lands which I've read about in Enid Blyton's books. Sometimes I would have an orange sitting there or perhaps read a book. Oh those lazy days!!!

When I was below the age group of teens, I used to go to a school famous for its century old buildings and a couple of great playgrounds. During this time of the year, we were done with our half yearly examinations and the girls would love to hang around outdoors. Playing badminton was an in-thing at that time!


Horses at Maidan
 On our terrace and roof, my uncle had lots of seasonal flowers. Ranging from roses in all shades of pinks, reds, oranges and some in mauve, yellow and white, dahlias as big as dinner plates and marigolds, antirrhinums, chrysanthemums that place became bright and colorful. For my parents' wedding anniversary, we did decorate the entire house with those flowers in pots!

Winter brings memories of cricket matches at Eden Gardens! Aah, how I loved them and how I loved the players clad in white with a v-necked sweater and bright cricket caps. I know the test matches go on and on and on but the good thing is everyone of the family (our family, including the domestic helps - not the standard "family of four") can go watch the match as it is spread over 5 days! The lunch baskets, oranges in paper bags, binoculars and bundling up in the morning are all parts of the game. Also, included are the spectators of Eden Gardens - famous for their love of cricket who gives standing ovation to players of the other countries as well and for their witty comments during the game.

Eden Gardens
Another thing that I must mention is the Calcutta Book Fair! Book lovers across the state visit it. The last one I went to was still at the old location of Maidan, I don't know if it is still having the same feel at its new location. It's hard to imagine that the fair is not to sell books, but to create an awareness of the love of reading. People who cannot afford to buy books for their kids can still bring them to the fair and the kids can read books at the stores. We pride ourselves on being book lovers and also in the exchange of cultures between Bengal and other countries. Book fair is definitely something we can be proud of!

Tram near Dalhousie square
A true Calcuttan loves trams. Those slow moving vehicles do not use petroleum and as a result do not pollute the environment, keeps to its tracks so doesn't increase traffic congestion either. The first class has fans and both the compartments have big, airy windows! People who complain that we need to get rid of trams because they are slow are not Calcuttans. They try to show off as "contemporary" people but have never boarded one ever on a lazy winter afternoon. Tram ride (especially the ones where you don't have a particular destination in mind) with someone from your family who knows enough and/or has enough memory associated with the passing landmarks, building, etc can be a memory of a lifetime. I remember one such ride with my mom, uncle and aunt on a cold, cold wintry afternoon - from Lansdowne to Dalhousie, bought food from all the vendors that boarded the tram and had tea from an earthen cup at Dalhousie standing right below the Ochterlony Monument. You'll feel the essence of Calcutta that way!!

Don't I sound nostalgic? Yes! The good thing is I'm off to Calcutta next week for "there's no place like home for the holidays" and also because "December এর কলকাতা তো কলকাতা নয় Calcutta!!"
Victoria Memorial Hall